Francesca Evening Gown instructions, wykroje krawieckie
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PATTERN
1 Front center piece 1x
2 front side piece 2x
3 back center piece 2x
4 Back side piece 2x
5 front application (chiffon) 2x
6 Front facing 1x
7 back facing 2x
8 Sleeves 2x
9 Sleeve cuffs 2x
10 Front placket 1x
11 Back placket 2x
12 Front center skirt panel 1x
13 Front skirt panel (right)1x
14 front and back side skirt panel 4x
15 Back center skirt panel 2x
16 Front center skirt panel (chiffon) 1x
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.
To lengthen
, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far
apart as necessary.
To shorten
, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far
as necessary. Blend the side edges.
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (– – – –)
means: here is the center of a pattern piece
but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut
double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern
pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting
diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The
cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern
pieces should be placed on the fabric.
The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern
on the fabric. Fabric I, fabric II and tulle.
Fabric I, fabric II: Cut pieces 1 to 4 and 6 to 15 from fabric II
from fabric II. For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces
are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the
right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the
wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown extending over
the fold of the fabric in the cutting diagram should be cut last
from a single layer of fabric.
Fabrics:
I: taffeta, II: chiffon
Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:
The plus size dress pattern is so large that it does not have a
print at home version, only the copy shop version.
Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table:
dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size,
trousers and skirts according to the hip width. If necessary,
change the pattern to fit your measurements if they deviate
from the Burda-size chart.
Cut out the pattern according to your size.
Important:
Piece 13 (front center skirt panel) is an
asymmetric piece and will be cut once only. When cutting
out place the pattern with it’s wrong side facing the right side
of the fabric, and cut.
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN
PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If
you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces
along the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". In this
way the proper fit is maintained. Always adjust all pattern
pieces along the same line to the same degree.
SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES
are included on
an average:
5/8” (1.5 cm)
for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA
copying paper, transfer the lines and signs of the pattern onto
the left fabric side. Instructions can be found in the
packaging.
LINING
Cut the lining pieces according to the cutting diagram and
press onto the wrong fabric side.
Sewing
While sewing, the right fabric sides are facing.
Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right fabric side
using basting stitches
DRESS / top
Princess seams
1 Position the front side pieces on the front center piece,
right sides facing. Pin the princess seams (seam 1) and
stitch.
Stitch the
back princess seams
the same way (seam 2).
Trim allowances, neaten and press apart.
Shoulder seams
Position the back pieces on the front piece, right sides
facing. Pin the shoulder seams (seam 3), thereby gathering
the shoulder edges. Stitch. Neaten allowances and press
apart.
Neckline / chiffon inlay
2 Fold the inlays along the fold line, wrong sides facing.
Pin raw edges together.
3 Double stitch the inlays along the curve from * to *,
using basting stitches. Leave the threads long. Hold the
bobbin thread and gather the fabric until the inlay fits into
the neckline between seam 4 and 5. Knot threads.
Distribute the width equally.
4 Pin the inlay between the cross lines of seam 4 and 5 on
the neckline. Snip in the allowances of the neckline edge
along the curve.
Facing
5 Position the back facing on the front facing, right sides
facing. Stitch shoulder seams (seam 6). Press the
allowances apart. Neaten the placket edges.
6 Pin the facing on the neckline, right sides facing, the
chiffon inlays enclosed. Snip in the facing allowance along
the neckline curve. Stitch the facing onto the neckline.
Trim allowances, snip in. press the facing over the
allowance into the neckline. Topstitch the facing narrowly,
thereby catching the allowances (6a). Fold the facing
inside, pin the edges and press.
Waistband
7 Pin the front waistband on the bottom edge of the front
piece, right sides facing (seam 7), stitch.
Pin the
back waistband
on the bottom edge of the back
piece, right sides facing (seam 8), stitch. Trim allowances
and press inside the facing.
Topstitch the
waistbands
narrowly.
Side seams
8 Position the back piece on the front piece, right sides
facing. Pin side seams (seam 12), stitch. Neaten
allowances and press apart.
Sleeves
9 Double stitch the sleeve cap between * and *, using
basting stitches.
Sleeve seams
Fold the sleeves, right sides facing. Pin the sleeve seams
(seam 13) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press apart.
Sleeve cuffs with straps
10 Fold the sleeve cuffs along the fold line, right sides
facing. Stitch the narrow sides and raw edge together up to
the cross lines 14 and 15 respectively. Secure seam ends.
Trim allowances and snip in at the cross lines (arrows), cut
the corners diagonally. Turn the cuff with straps, pin the
edges and press. Pin the raw edges between the cuts
together (10a).
11 Pin the raw edges of the cuffs on the lower sleeve edge,
right sides facing. The straps overlap from seam 14 and 15
respectively. Topstitch cuff. Neaten allowances and press
inside the sleeve.
Apply sleeve
To gather the sleeve cap slightly tighten the bobbin
threads.
12 Pin the sleeve to the armhole, right sides facing. For the
application of the sleeve 4 points have to be considered for
the right “fit”. The cross lines of sleeve and front piece
have to meet. Sleeve and side seams have to meet. The
cross line of the sleeve cap has to meet the shoulder seam.
The gathered width has to be distributed in a way that does
not pucker or create pleats. Pin the sleeve on the sleeve
side and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten and press inside
the sleeve.
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Skirt
Front skirt panels
13 Position the center skirt panel made out of chiffon
(piece 16) on the center skirt panel made of fabric (piece
12), the wrong side is facing the right side. Pin the side
and top edges together. Fold the allowance of the right
center skirt panel (piece 13), along the curved front edge,
to the inside and pin. Press and topstitch the allowance
narrowly.
14 position the skirt panel on the chiffon skirt panel,
wrong side facing the right side. Pin the right and top
edges.
15 Position the
side skirt
panels
on the front center skirt
panels, right sides facing. Pin the front princess seams
(seam 9). Stitch the seams from the top to 4” (10 cm)
above the hemline (arrow). Neaten allowances leaving a
margin of 4” (10 cm) from the hemline. Press allowances
inside the side skirt panels. Stitch the other side skirt
panels on the back center skirt panels according to the text
and drawing 15 (seam 9), thereby stitching to the bottom
edge. Neaten allowances and press inside the side skirt
panels/
Side seams
Position the back skirt panels on the front skirt panels,
right sides facing. Pin the side seams and stitch. Neaten
allowances and press apart.
Apply skirt
16 Pin the skirt onto the bottom placket edge of the top
piece (seam 10/11), the side seams meet. Stitch, Neaten
allowances and press inside the waistband.
Zipper (hidden through the seam)
The zipper will be invisible after applying. The zipper
needs to be a little bit longer than the opening. It will be
applied before stitching the back center seam below the
opening. The use of a zipper foot is required. Neaten the
allowances of the back dress edges.
17 Open the zipper. Pin the zipper with it’s right side onto
the allowance of the opening. The little teeth are exactly
positioned on the marked opening edge. Stitch both straps
of the zipper closely along the teeth line (17a), thereby
stitching from the top to the opening sign. Close the
zipper.
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Back center seam
18 position the back pieces together, right sides facing.
Stitch the center seam from the bottom to the opening
sign. Slightly pull the zipper. Secure seam ends. Press
allowances apart. Fold the facing along the back neckline
inside. Fold the ends of the facing and stitch onto the
zipper straps.
Hemline
19 Fold the hemline allowance along the front skirt panel
(chiffon) and the right center skirt panel inside, fold again
and stitch.
20 Neaten the allowance along the front center skirt panel
(dress fabric) and along the side and back skirt panels.
Fold inside and press. Topstitch the hemline.
21 Stitch the front princess seams, thereby stitching over
the allowance. Fold the bottom edges of the allowances
diagonally and stitch together. Neaten other allowances
and press to the side.
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